What and Where to Eat in Bologna: Restaurants Beyond Tradition (2022)

The Mayor of Bologna Virginio Merola declared on Twitter: “Speaking of fake news, spaghetti alla bolognese does not exist.” And the British tabloid Daily Mail reposted it in huge letters, saying that the mayor is sick of hearing tourists order an imaginary dish. But someone somewhere must have created this recipe, considering how famous it’s become. “It exists all right, at least since 1586,” says lawyer Gianluigi Mazzoni, a scholar of traditions. “It was an everyday dish, seasoned with sauce left over from the Sunday lunch, plus sausage and peas.” Indeed, denying such an international brand would be a shame, so along with other supporters, Mazzoni filed the recipe with a notary public, created the site spaghettibolognesi.it and invited everyone to come taste the dish at Adesso Pasta in Via IV Novembre.

Tradition? It’s in the books

Some people from Bologna are obsessed with culinary philology. How should tortellini be folded? How do you make lasagna? It’s all written down in the documents registered by the Italian Academy of Cuisine at the Chamber of Commerce: 30 recipes from proper dimensions of tagliatelle, filed in 1972, to spaghetto con il tonno (spaghetti with tuna) or strichetto bolognese (pasta created with the scraps of the pasta sheets), the most recent entry of June 2019.

What and Where to Eat in Bologna: Restaurants Beyond Tradition (1)

Tortellini and cocktails

But who goes to the trouble of pulling a single ribbon of tagliatelle from its ragù to ensure it’s exactly 0.3 inches wide or 12,270th part of Asinelli Tower's height? Some like their tagliatelle thicker, some like them with a rougher texture. Fortunately, there’s no law when it comes to flavor. Every cook has his formulas, and Bruno Barbieri’s recipe for tortellini with parmesan cheese sauce is definitely magical. At Fourghetti, his bistro with a bar, five rooms of contemporary design and young staff, tradition seems to have disappeared. Yet his tortellini evoke perennial flavors, even with an unusual cocktail (the Old Bo is ideal) and followed by a Michelin-starred dessert like the Coppa Machiavelli, which you can enjoy here, that way avoiding an expensive bill (about €60 here for a three-course meal).

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Stories, not words

Millennials love lasagna and zuppa inglese, but not culinary bickering or long meals like at endless wedding banquets. With four forkfuls and an Instagram Story they express their thoughts concisely. But they’re willing to stand in line for an hour at Pasta Fresca Naldi in Via del Pratello to order gramigna (green pasta) with ragù, and then sit and eat it at the bar across the street with wine, beer and, yes, even Coca-Cola.

Lighten up!

“Tradition is not a limit, but a stepping stone,” says Lorenzo Costa, who grew up in the world of starred restaurants, with his parents working in the field. He left years ago, and opened Oltre together with chef Daniel Bendanti. “Our kitchen looks to the future: we are faithful to the recipes, and manic about ingredients and techniques. Today a dish must be 100% digestible, whether it’s a meatball with the typical friggione (a peasant side dish with stewed onions), or a cutlet with ham and cheese, or a meat dish whose original recipe is cooked in lard.” Everything seems to be entirely correct: “We don’t replace the sauces with foams, we don’t reconstruct dishes. Our dishes are recognizable and comforting. Clear broth, precise cooking techniques, strict recipes.” And, of course a wide range of wines. “We are modern, each table has a formula choice: one course and a glass of wine for €20 or 10 tasting dishes with a wine for each dish.”

What and Where to Eat in Bologna: Restaurants Beyond Tradition (3)

Market shopping like in the old days

Today’s buzzwords are quality, sustainability, short supply chain. You want to know what’s on your plate. “Let me tell you how good dishes are prepared,” says Stefano Corvucci, chef at CIBO - Culinary Institute BOlogna, a cooking school and restaurant. “You have to buy good ingredients, and you can find everything at the Mercato di Mezzo.” What’s important in the “quadrilatero dei golosi” (which can be translate it as the Gourmand Quarter), or ancient food shopping district of Bologna, is not the historical shops dating back to half a century ago and 18th-century bills on display. Stefano orders chicory, the last artichokes, strawberries, the perfect cuts of meat for ragù and the tortellini filling. “Forget philosophy. Today, meat sauce is done cooking in two hours, where once it took ten because they used to use scrap meat.” Meanwhile, he rolls out the dough like an expert.

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(Video) 3 best restaurants in Bologna

Bike ride to the food park

There’s another young man rolling out pasta dough at the pasta factory in FICO, the Eataly educational-food park founded by Oscar Farinetti in the city’s former fruit and vegetable markets. It takes muscle to roll out a nearly transparent dough (in theory, while looking through it you should be able to see the Sanctuary of San Luca, but it may not always be on the horizon). FICO has been created so that you can see the production of food from the plant to the fork. There are 40 factories, from IGP mortadella to organic fruit juices, restaurants, and then gardens, olive groves, vineyards, pigs, horses, donkeys, sheep and goats. The best way to go shopping there is to rent a bike with a basket at the entrance.

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Vegan, sustainable and beautiful

Bologna is sensitive to sustainability, for a question of taste. It’s hard to go back to eating packaged cookies after tasting Maurizio Mortani’s vegan cookies at the Mercato Ritrovato on Saturday mornings (Piazzetta Pasolini). The market attracts casual families on bikes with children, and even elegant gentlemen, all coming to buy strictly organic foods. The cliché that only freaks and weirdos want to eat natural foods has finally passed. “The eye wants to be pleased too,” says Anna Artesiani, thoroughly convinced of this after opening the vegan restaurant Botanica Lab, when she opened a cafe featuring exotic plants, vintage sofas and a food offering – including avocado sandwiches and raspberry tarts – that makes you drool just looking at it all. Many of her recipes are raw. “If you tell people, they freak out, considering it a sort of punishment. But if something is good, it just is, and that’s all there is to it,” Anna concludes. Her dream is to sooner or later be free of the label. It would also be a big step forward for gastronomy.

Raise your palates high

At Cambio and Vicolo Colombina, Massimiliano Poggi offers traditional cuisine. But at Trebbo di Reno he shows a more innovative side in his restaurant. “Divertiti” (have fun) is the recommended menu, with five courses. First Insalata Russa (drops of vegetable in cream, sour cream and trout caviar prepared by hand with tools suited for microsurgery). Then Pasta e Medicina (the delicious onions from the town called Medicina). Conserva di Pomodoro (tomato preserves) with raw cod follows. Then Le Mie Radici (my roots), evoking memories of boiled meat on Sunday: Beef Tartare with Pickles, Root and Radish Salad, with a Sinew and Parsley Sauce. Mini Zuppa Inglese (trifle) and Mini Crema di Latte (creamed milk) to finish off perfectly.

Aurora Mazzucchelli is the chef of Ristorante Marconi; she began cooking with her father as a young girl and grew up to win a Michelin star in 2008 and a place in the prestigious Atelier des Grandes Dames Veuve Clicquot. The dining room is managed by her brother Massimo and sister Mascia, where together they have created a contemporary restaurant with eight well-separated tables, large windows, a garden and an herbal tea station.“I am not an advocate of 0-km food, but I feel it is necessary to know and use the excellent products of the area.”

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What and Where to Eat in Bologna: Restaurants Beyond Tradition (6)

Still, the Mazzucchellis were losing touch with the people of Sasso Marconi because of their high-end cuisine. So they created Forno Mollica, a bakery that also serves long-rising pizzas. “We are open from breakfast, and even if at first I didn’t even know my neighbors’ names, now I also know how they order their coffee!” Massimo concludes proudly.

Pizza and bread

The success of Berberè artisanal pizzeria began in Bologna. Now there are ten restaurants in Italy and two in London. The organic taste workshop Zazie network is from Bologna, and now has workshops in nine cities. The same goes for Forno Brisa, with four shops for bread, pastries and coffee. These three start-ups were opened by university graduates who succeeded by following three basic, shared principles: good, healthy and beautiful.

Pasquale Polito, a geography major from Abruzzo, was homesick for the bread he ate at home – to the point where he learned how to make it by watching video tutorials on YouTube and reading the Sorelle Simili’s book on bread. The results were impressive: word began to spread in his neighborhood that he made delicious bread, and people began ringing his doorbell to buy it.He then specialized in bread-making in Pollenzo, and along with some fellow students opened the first Forno Brisa, which makes bread with “gentle flours” that are technically not for bread-making, but are much more digestible – to every customer’s delight.

Time for a drink

How could we avoid discussing mixology? Word of mouth in Bologna will immediately take you to I Conoscenti, another young start-up under the porticoes of Via Manzoni. The popular drink Serendipity is served with a steamed bun and pan of ragù, embracing its Bolognese roots even in front of a floral-based gin drink. The bar is at the entrance, and almost hidden in back is a dining room with an open kitchen. Chef Salvatore Amato is from Puglia, offering more unusual dishes: Tri-color Risotto and Sturgeon in a Lemon Crust, all lightly and carefully prepared.

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Among books or under the stars

As you can imagine, there’s much more to taste in Bologna than a mortadella sandwich: the rite now demands it be accompanied by Berlucchi sparkling wine at Pigro Mortadelleria, behind San Petronio Cathedral. And there’s so much to see, from the Archaeological museum to the graffiti in Via del Pratello.

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You’ll need at least two or three days to really get to know the city. It’s best to book a hotel in the city center and explore it under the porticoes (38 km nominated for Unesco World Heritage protection). There’s no shortage of places to say. B&B Bibliò with six bedrooms and shelves full of books is in a residential building could be perfect for living like a local.

At the other end of the spectrum there’s the Grand Hotel Majestic già Baglioni, with newly renovated rooms and a restaurant with frescoes by the Carracci brothers, where the chef Cristian Mometti alternates local Romagna cuisine with that of the Veneto region, including passatelli and stockfish tortelli, zuppa inglese and meringue with hazelnut crumble and red fruit sorbet.

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What and Where to Eat in Bologna: Restaurants Beyond Tradition (9)

The Majestic is a historical hotel in Bologna, and has always been the trendiest hotel in the city. There’s an endless line of teens outside, ready to snap a shot with their cell phones. But who are they waiting for? “Shawn Mendes, the Canadian singer,” says the coated doorman, holding off the crowd. He’s used to it: celebrities always book there when staying in Bologna.

Photo by Monica Vinella


Where did Rick Stein eat in Bologna? ›

Rick's final stop in Bologna was to Ciaccos Restaurant with Ricardo Cattalani where he tried gurnard with passatelli, a pasta formed of breadcrumbs, eggs and grated Parmesan. The episode ended with Rick showing us how to make panna cotta with pistachios.

What time do people eat in Bologna? ›

Lunch begins around 1pm; Aperitivo starts between 6 and 7pm; then dinner commences at 8. La Grassa! If you're unfamiliar with the "Aperitivo" - the Italian Happy Hour - make time to go each day. Local bars offer food with your libations, either for free or just a few euros.

What is Bologna most famous for? ›

Why Bologna? Perhaps because it is the capital of Emilia-Romagna, a region in the north of Italy that is known for its ancient architecture, rich food, and the seaside. Maybe because Bologna is legendary for its traditional cuisine (tagliatelle al ragù and lasagne alla bolognese are a few examples of the many.)

What dessert is bologna known for? ›

Torta di riso (or Torta degli addobbi)

Like many regional desserts, torta di riso has an ancient origin. In Bologna, where it is called torta degli addobbi, it was already being made in the 1400s on Corpus Christi, when the streets were embellished with colored drapes.

What pasta is bologna famous for? ›


Unlike conventional flour & egg fresh pasta, Passattelli are traditional to Bologna and is a peasant dish served in broth. They consist of breadcrumbs, eggs and parmesan, made into a dough and passed (passati) through an attachment to form round, short pasta-like strands.

Is there a dress code for Rick Stein? ›


We have a relaxed dining atmosphere, so welcome guests to wear whatever they feel comfortable in. Most opt for smart-casual.

Who eats the most Bologna? ›

The top five bologna-loving states are all in the Midwest.
The top 10 bologna loving states are as follows:
  • Kentucky.
  • Kansas.
  • Wisconsin.
  • Oklahoma.
  • Arkansas.
  • Rhode Island.
  • West Virginia.
  • North Dakota.
24 Oct 2019

Can you eat the ring around Bologna? ›

The red ring is a fibrous type of casing. It's a combination of cellulose and paper, coated with glycerine. We don't recommend eating the red ring, or feeding it to your dog, or other pets.

What is a normal lunch in Italy? ›

Ideally, lunch includes courses; a primo piattoor first course, like pasta, gnocchi, or rice, a protein, and vegetables. Normally, lunch is Italian's biggest and most sustaining meal of the day.

Is bologna Italy cheap? ›

It's not only one of the best cities in Italy but also one where the cost of living isn't high. More importantly, living in Bologna is considerably cheap for students — compared to other European cities — as you only need to budget approximately €750 - €1,000 per month.

Does bologna have good food? ›

No matter what part of the country you visit, even the worst food is generally really good. But if you're looking for some of the best Italian food in Italy, head to Bologna in Emilia Romagna, widely considered to be the gastronomic capital of Italy — certainly one of the best food cities in Italy.

What is the most famous food in Bologna? ›

Bologna is known for the meaty and hearty Bolognese sauce, known locally as ragú. The dish originated in France from sauces using meat broth but leaving out the actual meat with the pasta. By the 18th century, documents show the first meat-based sauce served over pasta in Imola, a town near Bologna.

What is a person from Bologna called? ›

Bologna Bulåggna (Emilian)
Area code0039 051
Wikimedia | © OpenStreetMap
20 more rows

How many days in Bologna is enough? ›

Even though Bologna is Italy's 7th-largest city, the historic city center isn't all that large. You can walk from one end to the other in less than 45 minutes. Meaning that in 3 days you can really see (and eat!) all the best things in Bologna without feeling too rushed.

What is the number one dessert in Italy? ›

Tiramisù (Veneto)

Probably the most famous of all Italian desserts, Tiramisù is a powerful layering of coffee-soaked savoiardi (sponge finger biscuits) and a rich cream made with mascarpone cheese, eggs and sugar, sometimes spiced up with a drop of liqueur.

What cheese is Bologna known for? ›

Parmigiano Reggiano: The King of Cheeses – Bologna Uncovered.

What is the famous sweet in Italy? ›

Tiramisu. Italy's most famous dessert! The name of this dessert literally means “pick-me-up,” and that's exactly what tiramisu is: a dessert made with coffee and cocoa.

Why is there no spaghetti Bolognese in Bologna? ›

In Italy, this sauce is generally not served with spaghetti because it tends to fall off the pasta and stay on the plate. Instead, the people of Bologna traditionally serve their famous meat sauce with tagliatelle (tagliatelle alla bolognese).

What do they call spaghetti Bolognese in Bologna? ›

"What we'd prefer the world to know is that Bologna invented tagliatelle, tortellini, and lasagne." Rather than "spaghetti bolognese," what you'll actually find in Italy is Ragù alla Bolognese, which is their equivalent meat-based sauce.

Do Italians eat bologna? ›

Bologna food is unique among Italian regional foods. They're known for stuffed pastas among other things, like this giant tortellini known as tortellacci (below).

What do I wear to dinner at the Ritz Carlton? ›

Casual elegant | We recommend gentlemen to wear long trousers, jeans (in good condition), casual suits or shorts (casual yet polished), shirt (short or long sleeve), polo, and shoes; while for ladies it is recommended long trousers, dress, blouse or shirt, skirt, and sandals.

What should I wear to Rick Steins restaurant? ›

We have a relaxed dining atmosphere, so welcome guests to wear whatever they feel comfortable in. Most opt for smart-casual.

Which Rick Stein restaurants are closing? ›

Rick Stein's eponymous restaurant in Marlborough was one of two sites owned by the group set to remain closed permanently post lockdown. The other, located in Porthleven, Cornwall, has since been acquired by chef Michael Caines​​.

What is the number 1 eaten meat in the world? ›

1. Pork. Pork, the meat from hogs, or domestic swine, is the most consumed animal in the world at 36% (Source: UN-FAO). Pork is commonly thought of as white meat, but it is actually classified as red meat by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA).

What is the number 1 most eaten food in the world? ›

Rice is a food staple for more than 3.5 billion people around the world, particularly in Asia, Latin America, and parts of Africa.

What animal is bologna made out of? ›

Meat: The main ingredient in bologna is ground meat, which could be any combination of pork, beef, chicken and turkey or only one of those meats. You can even find bologna made of venison or other game meat.

Are hot dogs and bologna the same thing? ›

But the flat hot dogs are also known as bologna." "Bologna is essentially a very large hot dog that is sliced into slices," he added. "And so, you know, what is being shared is basically bologna. And there's a lot of different styles of bologna, but one of the styles is a large hot dog that's sliced into slices."

Do you remove the casing from ring bologna? ›

Remove the casings from the ring bologna and slice on the diagonal 1/2 inch thick. When the pan is hot, add a lump of butter and a spoonful of olive oil, and then add the bologna in one layer, leaving some space between the pieces.

What is the best bologna on the market? ›

Top 50 Scanned: Bologna beta
#1Bologna Oscar Mayer80 Calories
#2Beef Bologna Oscar Mayer90 Calories
#3Bologna Oscar Mayer80 Calories
#4Thick Cut Bologna Oscar Mayer120 Calories
46 more rows

What time do Italians go to sleep? ›

11:00pm – Midnight.

What is the number 1 food in Italy? ›

1. Pizza. Though a slab of flat bread served with oil and spices was around long before the unification Italy, there's perhaps no dish that is as common or as representative of the country as the humble pizza.

What is a typical breakfast in Italy? ›

Breakfast in Italy: what to expect

What is this? Homemade breakfast in Italy is usually a straightforward affair. Traditional breakfast drinks in Italian households are coffee, tea and cocoa milk for the kids and the main breakfast foods are bread with butter and jam, biscuits and cereals.

Do you tip in Bologna Italy? ›

Tipping isn't the norm in Italy like it may be in North America and some other countries in Europe, but it is still appreciated. Feel free to leave a small amount if the service has been particularly good.

Do I need cash in Bologna? ›

Bologna, from what I noticed, is still pretty cash-heavy. Although many establishments will take card these days, it's a safer bet to just have some cash on you at all times to be safe, especially for smaller shops (which might require a minimum spend for card usage) and especially for public transportation.

How much money do you need in Italy per day? ›

What is this? On average you can expect a trip to Italy to cost €55-130 per person per day (around $60 to $150 USD) for budget to mid-range travellers. These prices will be heavily influenced by how you chose to spend your money across accommodation, transportation, food, activities, and entertainment.

Where should I eat local in bologna? ›

10 Best Places To Eat And Drink Like A Local In Bologna
  • Osteria del Sole. ...
  • Caffé Terzi. ...
  • Trattoria Amedeo. ...
  • Cantina Bentivoglio Café ...
  • Quadrilatero. ...
  • Osteria dell'Orsa. ...
  • Ragù ...
  • Mercato delle Erbe.
8 Mar 2022

Why is bologna healthy? ›

Affordable and widely available, including in low and reduced fat and sodium formulations, bologna is a go-to protein source that supplies all essential amino acids necessary for optimal health and will keep you feeling satisfied long after your last bite.

Is bologna healthier than ham? ›

Deli Meats Higher in Fat Content

Bologna: One slice (28 grams) contains 3.5 grams of saturated fat and 90 calories. Ham: One slice (28 grams) contains 0.5 grams of saturated fat and 40 calories.

What is the number 1 popular food? ›

The Number 1 Most Popular Foods in America are Hamburgers!

What is bologna called in English? ›

“Bologna” is the name of a city in Italy, pronounced “boh-LOAN-ya.” But although the sausage named after the city in English is spelled the same, it is prononced “buh-LOAN-ee” and is often spelled “baloney.” Either spelling is acceptable for the sliced meat product.

What is slang for bologna? ›

The word baloney comes from the sandwich meat called bologna, which is typically made of leftover scraps of meat.

What is fried bologna called? ›

Newfoundlanders call fried bologna slices "newfie steaks." In Appalachia, bologna was a breakfast meat and "a savory supper offering, says Victuals author Ronni Lundy.

Is one night in Bologna enough? ›

Is one day enough in Bologna? 1 day in Bologna is more than enough to see its most popular sights, including the Two Towers, Piazza Maggiore and Archiginnasio. In fact, Bologna is a great day trip destination from Florence, Milan or Venice. Yet, if you're a foodie, I'd recommend staying at least overnight.

Is Bologna worth the trip? ›

Bologna is one of Italy's most beautiful cities. While it's not as well-known as the big names like Rome, Florence or Venice, visiting Bologna is an unforgettable experience. This gorgeous city is a brilliant short break destination and a fantastic base for some of Italy's best day trips.

What day is market day in Bologna? ›

In the Montagnola park and Piazza VIII Agosto, in 1251 we set up his cattle market, every Friday and Saturday (from dawn to sunset) is a weekly market of the most special of Italy and declared a Historic Market in Emilia Romagna: the Piazzola. More than 400 stalls where you can find everything.

Do you eat the red stuff on bologna? ›

We don't recommend eating the red ring, or feeding it to your dog, or other pets. Hi Sam. Thanks for reaching out. The bologna casing (red ring around the bologna slices) are a fibrous casing and it should pass through your dog!

What is the main ingredient in bologna? ›

Meat: The main ingredient in bologna is ground meat, which could be any combination of pork, beef, chicken and turkey or only one of those meats. You can even find bologna made of venison or other game meat.

What are 3 ingredients used in the making of the bologna? ›

Bologna is commonly made of beef, pork, turkey, or chicken that is finely ground and stuffed into a casing for cooking, which is often later removed. The bologna is cooked or smoked and then either packaged whole or sliced.

What is traditional bologna? ›

Bologna sausage, also spelled baloney (/bəˈloʊni/ bə-LOH-nee), is a sausage derived from the Italian mortadella, a similar-looking, finely ground pork sausage, originally from the city of Bologna (IPA: [boˈloɲɲa] ( listen)).

What is the healthiest lunch meat? ›

Choose the leanest cut of deli meat possible such as turkey, chicken breast, lean ham or roast beef. These type of deli meat have the highest nutritional value compared to others.

Is bologna healthy to eat? ›

Bologna, like other processed meats, may be classified as one of the least healthy foods in the Western diet. It has been estimated that 800,000 lives could be saved each year if bologna and other processed meats were eliminated from the diet.

What is the green stuff in bologna? ›

It's actually just a vegetable-based dye, commonly made from color-rich roots or berries, and fully edible. So, the next time you find a green or blue speck on your farm-fresh meat, don't toss it out. You're just seeing the evidence that the meat was inspected, and passed.

Are hot dogs and bologna the same? ›

But the flat hot dogs are also known as bologna." "Bologna is essentially a very large hot dog that is sliced into slices," he added. "And so, you know, what is being shared is basically bologna. And there's a lot of different styles of bologna, but one of the styles is a large hot dog that's sliced into slices."

What kind of cheese goes with bologna? ›

Best Cheese for Bologna Sandwiches

You can use your favorite cheese, though -- American, cheddar and Swiss are also good. Just use cheese that melts easily. Provolone melts almost instantly. So when it's melted, it's time to build the sandwich!

What type of meat is bologna? ›

Much like hot dogs, bologna is commonly made of beef, pork, turkey or chicken that is finely ground and stuffed into a casing for cooking which is often later removed. The bologna is cooked or smoked and then either packaged whole or sliced.

What is the classic bologna sandwich? ›

The bologna sandwich is a sandwich common in the United States and Canada. Also known as a baloney sandwich, it is traditionally made from sliced bologna sausage between slices of white bread, along with various condiments, such as mayonnaise, mustard, and ketchup.

Why is it called bologna? ›

Bologna gets its name from a city in Italy also called Bologna. They do have bologna there, but it's called mortadella. Mortadella is essentially the grandfather of the bologna everyone knows and loves in the United States. Both meats primarily use the same ingredients.

What is Leona bologna? ›

Leona Bologna, 0.75-1.5 lb Standard Cut

This finely ground, pork and beef bologna has a smooth and firm texture along with a creamy appearance. It is delicately-seasoned with a special selection of spices.


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